When we stepped outside at the Rapid City, South Dakota airport, I thought huh...there's really nothing here. That's true and it's not. South Dakota sits back, secure in its beauty and the sites and secrets it holds, and waits for you to come to it. It does not come to you. It doesn't attempt to seduce you with fancy brochures. But you find yourself imagining a life as Laura Ingalls Wilder soon enough anyway.
Our first stop was in Wall, at the infamous and tacky Wall Drug, a must for the tourons out there. About 45 minutes from the airport, Wall is a one horse tourist trap town with meh food in the Wall Drug cafeteria but plenty of people watching opportunities. I adored its little stone library, and there was a little free library rack outside too.
Then it was on to the Badlands after we stocked up on gallons of water and some jerky, nuts, and protein bars. There was a temporary road closure, so we cut through to the back end of the park on a dirt and gravel road (Sage Creek Road). We immediately encountered a shit ton of prairie dogs, some antelope, and some buffalo...and not much else. Wide open spaces, indeed. There weren't too many other people around the first three or four hours we were in the park.
The Badlands are harsh, lonely, and beautiful. It was like being dropped into a prehistoric era except we had electronics and a car. It is not a place where man is king. Weather, animal, earth, and sky are king there. Standing up on the bluffs, I felt how vast the world is, how old the earth is, and how insignificant this life is in time and space. There are very few times when it's good to feel small. This was one of them. To visit this place is to be instantly humbled and aware of your tenuous grip on a tiny strand in the universe.
We stopped at overlooks around the loop road of the park before pulling off to do some hiking at Pig Dig, an archaeological site. We kept it relatively short and took a lot of water with us - it's like the Sahara out there. We saw a lot of interesting rocks, awesome colors, and heard the telltale rattle of a snake so we beat feet the other way. We did some climbing (MFD more than me, of course) and really enjoyed being pretty much alone in the middle of the Badlands.
We continued to loop around the park and checked into our hotel as we got closer. When it comes to National Parks trips, you are limited with your hotel and dining selections if you're staying inside park boundaries. We lucked out with this one. Great views, quiet, and not a bad room.
The food at Cedar Pass Lodge wasn't bad either - the bison burger and ice cream (made at South Dakota State University) were awesome. But enough about the food - here's the sunset.
We were up and out by 7 the next morning to stop at the few places we wanted to see but were unable to get to the day before. On a trip like this, you can't be lounging around wasting your mornings. When there's a lot to see, you're just burning daylight.
MFD did some more climbing and I just stood on a rock taking in the enormity and the silence and the skies that changed by the second.
I know MFD felt like he could spend more time there, but I feel like we got a good overview and that it's definitely doable in what amounts to about a 10 hour day. I loved staying overnight in the Badlands - the stars were incredible and I saw the freaking milky way, right in front of my eyes. My neck hurt from looking up. I'll keep that photo stored in my mind's eye forever.
The day we drove out, actual tumbleweeds were flying across the road.
Laura Ingalls Wilder, can you hear me? I made it.
Next up: the day we saw everything.
The dirty details - if you'd like a full trip itinerary, please comment below or email me at lifeaccordingtosteph@gmail.com
Day 1: PHL - Rapid City, SD with a layover at O'hare in Chicago. Arrived in Rapid City at 10:23 a.m. Rental car from Hertz, picked up right in the very tiny Rapid City airport. Stopped for lunch in Wall then on to Badlands National Park by 1.
Hotel:
Cedar Pass Lodge in Badlands National Park
Day 2: Badlands until 9 a.m.
In my head the whole time?
Light's out tonight
Trouble in the heartland
Got a head-on collision
Smashin' in my guts, man
I'm caught in a crossfire
I don't understand
But there's one thing I know for sure, girl
I don't give a damn
For the same old played out scenes
I don't give a damn for just in-betweens
Honey, I want the heart, I want the soul
I want control right now
Talk about a dream, try to make it real
You wake up in the night
With a fear so real
You spend your life waiting
For a moment that just don't come
Don't waste your time waiting
Badlands, you gotta live it everyday
Let the broken hearts stand
As the price you've gotta pay
Keep pushin' till it's understood
These Badlands start treating us good
Linking up with
Kristin and
Joey for Stuff & Things
